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Twice a day, the River Thames pulls back from its banks and leaves behind a wide, glistening stretch of mud and shingle. For most Londoners hurrying across the bridges above, this brief window means nothing more than a smell of damp stone. For a small and dedicated group of searchers known as mudlarks, however, it is the best two hours of the day. Wrapped in waterproof trousers and rubber gloves, they climb down worn stone steps onto the foreshore and begin to search, eyes fixed on the ground, for whatever the river has decided to give up.
Mudlarking is not a modern hobby. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, poor children and adults picked over the same mud for scraps of coal, rope and metal that they could sell for a few pennies. Today's mudlarks search for a different reason. They are drawn not by hunger but by curiosity, and by the extraordinary fact that the Thames has been used as a highway, a marketplace and, for centuries, a rubbish dump. Objects dropped or thrown into the water by Romans, Tudors and Victorians alike still lie undisturbed in the silt, sealed away from the air that would otherwise cause them to rot or rust.
What turns up is remarkably varied. Clay pipes, snapped off at the stem and discarded by seventeenth-century smokers, are so common that most mudlarks stop picking them up within a few weeks. Rarer finds include Tudor dress pins, medieval leather shoes softened to the texture of chocolate, and coins bearing the faces of long-dead monarchs. On 03/02/2022, one mudlark uncovered a small bronze token, barely bigger than a thumbnail, that experts later dated to the reign of Elizabeth I. It had lain in the mud for over four hundred years, waiting for the tide to expose it for a single low water.
None of this searching happens by accident. Anyone wishing to mudlark along most of the tidal Thames must first apply to the Port of London Authority for a foreshore permit, and even permit holders are forbidden from digging below the surface without further permission. The rules exist for good reason. The foreshore is not merely muddy; it is dangerous. The tide can return with startling speed, cutting off stretches of shore and stranding anyone who has wandered too far or become too absorbed in their search. Experienced mudlarks always check the tide tables before they climb down, and never turn their back on the water for long.
Beyond the thrill of discovery, mudlarking has become genuinely useful to historians. Under an arrangement known as the Portable Antiquities Scheme, significant finds can be recorded by experts at the Museum of London, adding new pieces to the story of the capital that written records alone could never tell. A single clay pipe reveals little on its own, but thousands of them, mapped against where they were found, can show how smoking habits spread through the city over time. In this way, an afternoon's muddy hobby quietly feeds into serious archaeological research.
Priya Okonkwo-Bell, who has searched the foreshore near Bankside for six years, describes the appeal simply: 'You are holding something that a real person held, hundreds of years before you were born. Nobody else has touched it since it went into the river. For a moment, the gap between then and now just disappears.' It is this sense of direct, physical contact with the past, rather than the small chance of finding something valuable, that keeps most mudlarks returning to the same grey stretch of mud, tide after tide, year after year.
It would be easy to dismiss mudlarking as an eccentric pastime for a handful of enthusiasts. Yet beneath the surface of a hobby lies something more significant: a reminder that history is not confined to museums and textbooks, but lies scattered, literally, beneath our feet. Every clay pipe stem and Tudor pin is a small, stubborn piece of evidence that ordinary lives, long since ended, once mattered. The Thames, patient and indifferent, simply keeps giving them back.